As a technical designer, patterns are the key for opening the door to many problems you will have with the fitting of the garments. When you are looking at a sample on a mannequin or on a person it may be hard to see exactly what needs to change. Once you unfold your patterns and start piecing them together, you may find that the answer to the solution is laying in front of you! An AHA moment might occur. Patterns are a technical designers best friend. The reason why I personally love patterns so much is because they are like puzzles. You need each piece to complete the picture and every pattern piece relates to another to complete a garment. It is very intriguing.
The most difficult style I have worked on since my start at Mud Pie in October was during the Fall 2016 line. This style was a raglan sleeve one-piece that was fitting so strange at the shoulder and top portion of the sleeve. Raglan styles tend to be more difficult, making it tough to shape them perfectly correct. For those of you who do not know exactly what a raglan sleeve is, it is a diagonal seamed sleeve that comes from under the arm, across the body, to the collar bone and connects at the front and back neckline. If you didn’t quite get all of that nonsense you will see below during today’s Fit Friday.
The diagonal aspect is what makes a raglan sleeve challenging. There are so many ways for it to go wrong – the angle of the diagonal, the shape of the diagonal, the placement and more. For this particular style below the width of the raglan at the shoulder/ neckline was too narrow, causing the sleeve to fit very tight. And trust me, that fit would be very uncomfortable for your little.
The position of the raglan on the front and the back of the garment is in the wrong place. It is too far over onto the shoulder. So we had to move the placement of the front and back.
In a correction like this, the sleeve pattern is adjusted and what we add to the sleeve pattern we take away from the front and back body of the pattern.
The next sample came in and looked much better. The placement of the raglan was almost perfect and the sleeve fit better as well! Now this style was not fixed all in one fitting. We had to rework it a few times, but after all of the other pattern adjustments we made, I think it turned out great!
Here is a sneak peek of today’s Fit Friday piece – the Reindeer One-Piece – coming Fall 2016!